IN 2007, THE CHRISTIAN LACROIX HIGH FASHION HOUSE HAS BEEN 20 YEARS, THAT, GENERALLY, A RATIOUSLY YOUNG AGE FOR A FAMOUS BRAND. IN HONOR OF THE CELEBRATION OF THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS FASHIONABLE HOUSE, DESIGNER CHRISTIAN LACROIS DECIDED TO ORGANIZE THE EXHIBITION DEDICATED TO HISTORY OF FASHION. A RETROSPECTIVE CALLED BY “CHRISTIAN LACRUIS: HISTORY OF FASHION” COVERED A RATHERLY LARGE PERIOD - STARTING FROM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND TO THE PRESENT DAYS.
The exposition exhibited more than 400 exhibits of models of clothes and accessories, which at one time had a great influence on the development of world fashion. Among them were dresses of the 1930s and some models of the 1980s of Lacroix himself. “I chose the most striking patterns, some of which have never been exhibited before in public. Thus, I tried to most clearly and clearly show the history of fashion over the past two centuries,” said Christian Lacroix. Today, perhaps, there is already no person who would not hear the name Christian Lacroix. Christian Lacroix is one of the brightest and most influential figures in the fashion world. Due to its ability to combine incongruous and get an incredible result, the French couturier received the nickname "master with a magic brush." What is happening today in the House of Christian Lacroix, 20 years after its founding? We talked about this with the President of the House, Nicolas Topiol, who visited Dubai and kindly agreed to answer the questions of our editor in chief.
Nicholas, please tell me why your position at the Christian Lacroix House is called the “president of the brand’s renaissance”?
In early 2005, the American company Falic Group bought the Christian Lacroix trademark from the famous French fashion concern LVMH. I, at one time, began my career as a broker and seller of securities in the French branch of Standard Chartered Bank. After receiving an MBA from Warton School at the University of Pennsylvania, he began working in the private investment department at Societe Generale, and later joined the French representative office of Apax Pertners. In 1994, I moved to the United States, and in 2002 I started working at Falic Brothers, where I was engaged in the restructuring of one of the companies controlled by the family. Further development led to the opening of duty free shops in Central and South America, the acquisition of Hard Candy and Urban Decay Cosmetics, owned by LVMH, and the restructuring of these companies.
Subsequently, I negotiated the purchase of the Christian Lacroix brand from LVMH on behalf of Falic Brothers. And today I am the president of the House, responsible for the revival of the brand. Actually, my main task is to maintain the corporate identity inherent in all couturier collections of Christian Lacroix, which are recognizable and loved all over the world, as well as bringing the brand to a leading position in the world of luxury. Like no other, Christian Lacroix is able to create unique images, both in clothes and in everything else. And this is very valuable in today's world.
Christian Lacroix House celebrated its 20th anniversary at the end of 2007. How did it all start?
The history of the House began long before its official opening. For example, from the birth of the great couturier, who was born on May 16, 1951 in the small provincial town of Arles in southern France. Parents-engineers did not look for souls in their son, and father and grandmother instilled in him a love of fashion - they were not the last fashionists in their city. In 1970 1972 Lacroix studied art at Paul Valery University in Montpellier, and after moving to Paris, continued his education at the Sorbonne. At that time, cinema became the real passion of Lacroix, and even today he easily recalls all the popular films of those years and the costumes used in them. In 1972, he was enrolled in the Sorbonne's Department of Art History, after which he worked as a shoe designer for several years, created accessories for Hermes Fashion House, and worked as an assistant to Guy Paulin.
Lacroix began the path to the career heights modestly: from working as a journalist and fashion columnist, and then as an assistant at Hermes Fashion House. In 1981, a promising designer moved to Jean Patou House. In the early 80s, the name of the glorious once Fashion House Patou was remembered only by the most devoted fashion connoisseurs, and Lacroix in a short time managed to completely revive the company and triple its sales.
In 1987, Lacroix left Patou to establish his own Fashion House. The first collection of a brilliant artist was created with the financial support of Agache Co. Ltd. Lacroix Fashion House was the first haute couture showroom to open in Paris over the past twenty years.
What, in your opinion, was Christian Lacroix able to win the hearts of first of such capricious and demanding Parisian fashionistas, and then of the whole world?
In the late 80s, Lacroix presented several collections that traced the clear influence of modern artists with their characteristic riot of colors and paradoxical color combinations. That is what became a novelty in the then world of haute couture. Few people thought about hats and crinolines. At the height of fashion, there was a disco style with its huge shoulders and skinny trousers. Christian Lacroix managed to do the impossible - to revive the interest in High Fashion in the 1980s, when everyone already thought that the haute couture had died.
In 1988, Lacroix was awarded the prestigious Golden Thimble Award. In 1989, couturiers launched the first pre-a-porter collection. The year 1990 was marked by the appearance of the perfume C'est La Vie Christian Lacroix, the presentation of which became a real event in the fashion world. In 1989-1990, Lacroix presented the Luxe line to the public. Since 1990, Lacroix Fashion House has been producing branded accessory lines, including shoes, glasses, hats, bags, jewelry, scarves and belts. Having gained popularity in his homeland, in Paris, Christian began to open boutiques in different countries of the world. And interestingly, everywhere his collections were perceived on "Hurray!".
What's the secret?
In a completely extraordinary stylistic approach to clothes, shoes, household items and everything around. The source of inspiration for Lacroix at different times was the East, the Middle Ages, and the reign of Napoleon. In addition, in the couturier’s creations one can find direct associations with the military uniform and peasant costume of Mongolia. The maestro does not forget about youth. In 1995, Lacroix launched the BAZAR line of stylish youth casual wear, which was a resounding success. In the same year, the designer introduced a line of home decor items and furniture. During a visit to Paris, Princess of Wales Diana was wearing a Lacroix satin red dress. The press actively discussed the friendship between the French couturier and the English princess, who agreed on the basis of astrology.
Who are the main buyers of the creations of Chrisitian Lacroix House today?
People who gravitate towards luxury in everything: in clothes, shoes, lifestyle in general. Our main market today is the luxury market in which Christian Lacroix House is one of the first places. We have slightly revised the concept of our boutiques - today they are more stylish and modern, however, the presence of classics can still be seen in all the details of the interior. Christian Lacroix boutiques today present not only clothes, shoes and accessories, but also perfumes and home decor elements. We are seriously engaged in expanding our presence in international markets, and today Christian Lacroix boutiques are not only in Europe and the USA, but also in countries of South America, the Middle East and Asia. And in every region there are buyers who are fans of our brand.
What are the main elements of style that distinguish Christian Lacroix House from other Haute Couture Houses?
Lacroix loves to use very bright, catchy colors and unexpected color combinations. The "signature" colors of the Lacroix palette: purple, poisonous pink, orange, yellow, all shades of red, blue and green. Sometimes the maestro manages to combine them in one outfit. Lacroix clothing is easy to recognize by its extraordinary color scheme. The riot of colors that distinguishes the creations of Lacroix is a tribute to nature and the bright sun of his native Provence.
Lacroix predominantly uses trapezoidal and pyramidal silhouettes, so the clothes from Lacroix are long loose outfits, light and weightless. The designer also likes to create multi-layered ensembles. Lacroix often uses artificial and natural flowers to draw attention to the neckline, as well as an unusual emphasis on hats. Lacroix's creations abound with ruffles, lace corrugated collars and cuffs, frills and frills. An integral component of his corporate identity is rightfully considered embroidery, which Lacroix uses at any opportunity. The embroidered ornament on the costumes by Lacroix often resembles the traditional embroidery of a Spanish historical costume. In addition, couturiers often combine embroidery with jewelry. As a rule, the embroidery for the Lacroix House is performed by the famous embroiderer Francois Lesage.
In his collections, Lacroix prefers wool, mohair, leather, tweed, chintz, velvet, plaid, tapestry, crepe, satin, llama wool and printed fabrics. An important complement to Lacroix clothing is branded accessories such as massive jewelry, felt and leopard hats, patchwork patchwork shirts, hoods, embroidered berets, fringed or striped scarves, rivet belts or fringed, gloves with embroidery, long necklaces, orange or golden boots, massive crosses decorated with precious stones.
Are there many Russian buyers in your international boutiques, including in Dubai? Are you planning to open Christian Lacroix boutiques in Russia?
I think that there are many Russians among our customers. Russians love luxury and splendor. Our Dubai boutique has been operating for several years, and it seems to me that buyers from Russia and the CIS countries are among its main customers. In our new collection, which is slightly different from all previous ones and more inclined to luxury and sophistication, they will find everything that suits their taste.
As for Russia, this is the second item on my list of "most important matters." So far, we have sold only our jeans collections in Russia, but today we plan to open a full-fledged haute couture boutique in Moscow, taking into account the preferences, tastes and income level of Russians. We are looking for a local Russian partner. And I think this is a unique opportunity for Lacroix House to enter such an interesting and promising market.
Thanks for the conversation, Nicholas. Allow me to wish you good luck in all your endeavors and wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Thank you for the opportunity to chat with readers of Russian Emirates from the pages of your magazine. I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
