Text: Dariga Masenova GETTING ON THE RADAR OF BUYERS OF SUCH STORES, HARVEY NICHOLS, SYMPHONY OR BLOOMINGDALE'S, IS A SERIOUS BUSINESS. YOUNG DESIGNERS ARE REQUIRED FOR UNEVERED CONSCIOUSNESS AND TALENT TO COMPLY WITH THE HARVEY NICKS STATUS AND SIMILAR. WE WILL TALK ABOUT THOSE WHO ALREADY HAVE BEEN SURROUNDED IN THE REGION A ROUND.
IAMMAI by Anthropology of Design
The fashion brand IAMMAI, which means "I am May", was created in 2014 on the basis of an experiment between juxtaposing art and minimalism in design with the concept of "modest" fashion. Its founder and ideological mastermind May Albudur is an emirate "designer of everything" with a background in art, architecture, interiors and graphic design. Her label is May's fantasies about how modern fashion should be: without too much “noise”, with clear lines and shapes.
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Ramadan Pop-Up)
Noon by noor
Recently, the Noon by Noor clothing line has become popular in the Emirates. Its creators, the designers of Sheikh Nur Al Khalifa and Sheikh Haya Al Khalifa, founded the label in Bahrain in 2008. Cousins and best friends studied design in the States together, after which they returned to their homeland. The fashion house celebrated the opening in July 2011 in Los Angeles, and it marked its debut next year with participation in New York Fashion Week. By the way, this is the first regional brand to showcase its collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and become the Breakthrough of 2013 according to ELLE magazine.
Where to buy: Symphony
Dee by dalia
Beginning designer of Palestinian and Lebanese origin, Dahlia Ali grew up in the UAE. Having dropped out of the faculty of economics, Ali completely switched to design and fashion. In the region, she is known in a narrow circle of clients and friends with feminine images and elements such as bows and an open shoulder line. Her debut collection is inspired by Dubai itself and its coastal heat.
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Ramadan Pop-Up)
Hussein bazaza
"The most promising designer" of 2013, Lebanese Hussein Bazaza, perhaps the youngest in the regional fashion scene: he is only 25 years old. Despite this, he already managed to win the Prix de Stylistme award, to practice at the Maison Rabih Kayrouz in Paris and at the couturier Eli Saab in Beirut. The young man launched his collection thanks to the Starch Foundation platform, supporting local talents. His latest collection is called Luna and is made in 3D-technology and emphasized by the evening color palette: black, dark blue, green, burgundy and purple tones.
Where to buy: husseinbazaza.com
Bedouin
Andraya Farrag is the creative director of the label for modern women's clothing with the most colorful name. The clothes from Farrag are united by clean lines, a simple cut and a relaxed silhouette. The designer founded the label a year ago, and during that time she had already managed to gather a considerable army of "urban Bedouins", consisting of business women, bloggers and artists. Her latest collection, “On the Road”, demonstrates the freedom of movement and transformation from daytime to evening look.
The journey begins under the celestial dome of desert Nevada, so you can find Western fringe, the richly embroidered Canyon bomber inspired by the Grand Canyon, and the entire palette of night blue in skirts in the style of the 1920s with a metallic shade. The collection is spontaneous, just like real Bedouins, which makes it possible to improvise with different images.
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Project Summer)
Zena presley
Another designer, also looking for himself in fashion and art, is Zina Presley. Her talent was fully revealed when she worked on a collection dedicated to African culture. The designer’s debut collection includes dresses, tops and skirts of a classic cut, but artistic prints attract attention. They seemed to embody all the features of the continent - nature, wildlife, as well as African religious traditions. Scenes from the daily life of Africans reflect the struggle for survival, salvation and hope.
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Ramadan Pop-Up)
Anthropology of design
In Dubai, a new design platform Anthropology of Design has appeared, the purpose of which is to promote the culture of the Emirates. In its very name - "Anthropology of Design" - a slight hint of the philosophy of the program: the integration of cultural research of the country with progressive design concepts. The platform’s objective is to convey to people the idea of how objects of art can make the lifestyle of modern society more interesting and saturated.
The focus is on the design principles of a traditional Emirate dress. As a result of this approach to fashion, three designer products are created that are permanent elements of the local wardrobe - dress, outerwear and accessories.
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Ramadan Pop-Up)
Deborah henning
Few of Dubai's fashion designers boast work in fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen and Sass & Bide. Deborah Henning also worked with the progressive British brand Ghost, and after debuting at London Fashion Week in a Vogue review, she was called the "new fashion radar designer."
Four years after moving to the Middle East, Deborah created her own collection. Henning often takes as a basis the images of his favorite style icons, such as Charlotte Gainsbourg and Patti Smith. The designer purchases materials for collections exclusively in France and Italy, and also uses local Cananda fabrics. The girl herself describes her somewhat minimalistic aesthetics as follows: "Looks like she just got out of bed."
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Project Summer)
Razan alazzouni
Saudi Arabian designer Razan Alazzuni studied at the School of the Museum of Juice Arts at the University of BostoAmerica. In addition to her love for sculpture, she was interested in high fashion, so the first collection of clothes was a stagnant thesis project by a newly-made fashion designer. The inspiration of the designer was the women of the East, their grace and natural charm. Razan Alazzuni uses chiffon and silk to emphasize the ephemeral femininity in multifaceted images. Razan's business card - floral print.
Where to buy: Symphony
Dina khalife
In 2011, Dina Khalifa, a graduate of the European Design Institute in Madrid, decided to leave the post of chief designer of accessories for the youth Spanish label Bimba & Lola, “to do her job” - to develop bright textile textures and create women's ready-to-wear clothing.
Where to buy: Symphony
Madiyah al sharqi
The daughter of the ruler of the emirate of Fujairah, Sheikh Madiyah Al Sharki, grew up surrounded by haute couture pieces. It is not surprising that from childhood the girl was used to working with luxury fabrics, and her eye was trained to perceive even the most avant-garde design. Sheikh launched her label as a student at the Esmod Fashion Institute under the leadership of renowned Lebanese designer Abed Mahfouz. This season, Al Sharki offers an evening collection in the style of the 60s, which is dominated by a combination of lace, taffeta and jacquard. Her outfits are ideal for going to the upcoming Iftar family and the Eid al-Fitr festival.
Where to buy: Symphony
Endemage
In Arabic, Endemage translates as "connecting two." This label is the brainchild of two Omani sisters - Lubny and Nadia. The elegant style of their models is characterized as "East meets West" ("Where the East meets the West"). Educated at the Dubai branch of Esmod Fashion Institute, the sisters founded their own brand in 2010. Today they have a huge army of local fans, and the girls themselves are regular participants in the quarterly Fashion Forward Fashion Week. Endemage’s clothing is full of allegories and quotes from classic Arabic folklore, including the tales of A Thousand and One Nights and Aladdin's Magic Lamp. However, the sisters are not alien to eclecticism - silk dresses on the floor often adorn the decor of staves and spikes.
Where to buy: Symphony
Wadha al hajri
Qatar designer Uadha Al Hajri lives and works in New York, but often comes to the Middle East: in fact, design is only her hobby. Hajri works for a private research company. After studying at the University of Qatar, the girl wanted to express herself, and she decided to try herself in fashion. And although she does not have a classical “fashionable” education, Hajri is seriously interested in architecture, which gives her nourishment for creating future works. One of the collections is inspired by traditional Bedouin tent tents - clear lines, minimalist decor and light austerity in design.
Where to buy: Symphony
Fatma fardan
Fatema Fardan is the first Emirate designer ever to attend New York Fashion Week. The show at the Voce Di art gallery in Soho, Manhatta, was not driven by a Julia Reutfield style icon and DJ Lay Lezark. The latest collection is inspired by the glamorous style of the 70s jetsetter. Leather skirts, fringe, colorful maxi dresses and colorful fur became the main accents. In Dubai, Fardan is loved, and some boutiques, such as By Symphony, even create their own capsule collections together with the designer.
Where to buy: Symphony
Sandra mansour
Sandra Mansour lives and works in Beirut. She spent many years in Switzerland, studying business management at Webster University in Geneva. However, when Sandra returned to Lebanon, she managed to practice at the Elie Saab studio, after which she enrolled in the Fashion Design department at the Marangoni Institute in Paris. Today, Mansour produces two lines: wedding and ready-to-wear, and both are represented at Paris Fashion Week. Her style can be characterized by her own words: "Simplicity multiplied by modern elegance."
Where to buy: sandramansour.com
Faissal el-malak
The young Palestinian designer Faisal El-Malak grew up between Doha and Montreal and studied fashion at the Paris Chardon atelier. In the past, designers were invited to participate in Fashion Week in Morocco, Casablanca, as well as in the Carthage Design and Fashion Festival design program in Tunisia. In 2014, the designer’s work was exhibited at the Qatar Art Center in Doha. In the latest collection, El-Malak turned to Arab culture and began working with Yemeni weavers from Damara, including traditional Yemeni graphics in the women's collection, consisting of Abai and caftans, as well as attributes of the "western" wardrobe: trousers, skirts, shirts and dresses.
Where to buy: Harvey Nichols - Dubai (Ramadan Pop-Up)
Lara khoury
Lara Khuri's style is quite conceptual and minimalistic. The Beirut designer appreciates the purity of lines and stylization and is able to “ennoble” even the simplest design due to very close attention to detail. Lebanese fashion designer Eli Saab helped her “polish” her vision, and in 2010, Lara Khoury label became fully operational.
Where to buy: Symphony
