Text: Irina Malkova WOMEN-PERFUMERS FROM KUWAIT CAN BE CALCULATED AT FINGERS. BUT KUWAI WOMAN-PERFUMEER, CREATING ITS OWN BRAND AND RECEIVING WORLD RECOGNITION, IS ONE. THIS IS SOUAD AL QUINE. TODAY FOR HER EXOTIC SPIRITS, RELEASED UNDER THE SUHAD PERFUMES BRAND, LINE UP FROM MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL FAMILIES AND HOLLYWOOD CELEBRITIES.
We meet at the Fashion VIP Lounge in Dubai Mall. A stunningly spectacular woman comes out to meet me. Beautiful east. Long dark hair, mysterious eyes, luxurious attire, exquisite manners. And, of course, a unique, expensive, rare aroma.
“My perfume is very persistent,” says Suad, smiling and sitting down in a soft chair by the window. - Sometimes they stay on clothes for about six days. And every day they open in a new way, so it is very interesting at times to observe the reaction of people. Perhaps, at first, perfumes will seem too concentrated to someone, but this is a deceptive impression. You just need to get used to the oriental notes, in particular to oud (agar), which is found in many of my flavors.
In this case, the collection is not divided into male and female?
Souad: Yes, my entire collection is unisex. This is its feature.
And where are the perfumes themselves made?
Souad: Oddly enough, in France. After all, there is everything to create my aromas - the necessary fresh ingredients, professional equipment, trained people. France has always been famous for its perfume industry, so I decided to open production there. And I do not regret it at all.
Why did you decide to become a perfumer?
You come from a very noble and respected family, and besides, until recently, the society in Kuwait was not very encouraging when a woman started doing business. Suad: The fact is that from early childhood I lived with my family abroad. My father owned a real estate business, and my mother was terribly interested in European perfumes, and we can say that her passion was transmitted to me. Then we returned to Kuwait, and the idea came to me to combine European and Oriental flavors, and I slowly began to mix them just for myself. Until the moment came when they began to stop me and ask what perfume I use. So my hobby turned into a business.
To whom did you sell your first perfume?
Suad: To my half-sister. She bought them for 10,000 dirhams, which at that time was quite expensive. Then, in the mid-90s, I was invited to take part in a perfume exhibition in Kuwait, then other international exhibitions followed, and gradually they began to recognize me. But, despite some recognition, I really had to face the critical reaction of Kuwaiti society. It took a lot of effort to break through the wall of misunderstanding and to declare oneself loudly. If my husband didn’t support me, I don’t know how I would manage. At that time I received a lot of criticism, but it was she who gave me strength. I constantly maintained that I had to be successful and move only forward. So on my way to the top there were ups and downs.
And today you are even a member of the Society of British Perfumers ...
Souad: Yes, I always wanted to join this organization. When I turned to them, they told me: "If you want to stand next to such famous brands as YSL, Christian Dior or Cartier, you should be something of yourself, and not just be a perfumer from the Middle East." Then I presented to my court two of my most famous fragrances - Zio and Royal Lite and said that my main message was to combine European and Eastern cultures in them. As a result, they accepted me. Later, I was trained in London by the president of the Society of British Perfumers John Bailey, and my perfumes were included in the book of world famous perfume expert Michael Edwards.
How many fragrances are in your collection now?
Souad: Eleven. And most of all I love working with Bulgarian rose, patchouli and oud, as it has depth and layering.
I know that in addition to your own collection, you are developing an individual perfume to order.
Souad: Yes, because perfumes made for the client reflect their personality as much as possible and often help to figure out oneself. But the creation of such a fragrance is painstaking work that does not endure fuss.
When I meet a client, I ask questions that interest me and try to immerse myself in his inner world. And during the production I try to constantly remind myself that I am doing what will subsequently be everywhere to accompany him, even to some extent “represent” him to others.
Who are your customers?
Souad: Usually, only very wealthy people, members of royal families and wealthy businessmen turn to me. All the materials I use are expensive and rare. I select them very carefully and often bring them from around the world.
How would you characterize the three main components of the success of the profession of perfumer?
Suad: First, you need to love what you do. Secondly, you must have a nose. And thirdly, you have to be a romantic.
Do you believe that spirits can drive you crazy or make you fall in love with a person?
Souad: Smells affect the emotional sphere, and certain ingredients can really seduce. But you must love the fragrance in order to understand it. If I enter the room, I can be recognized only by one loop. Believe me, no one else will have this. There is simply no copy in this world.
