Text: Anna Pavlova USUALLY THE CLOCK CARL F. BUCHERER IS SELECTED BY PEOPLE WHO WEAR THE MAGNIFICENT MECHANICS, BUT WHEN IT WANTS TO LOOK AT THE ORIGINAL. ABOUT BRAND COMPLICATIONS AND LATEST NEWS, THE SASA MOERI COMPANY GENERAL DIRECTOR TOLD US.
The watch brand Carl Bucherer is almost a hundred years old. Tell us what the company's philosophy is now and has it changed?
Sasha Moeri: The brand’s traditions have never been interrupted, so today we produce watches inspired by the same philosophy and based on the same engineering art as before. Some details have remained unchanged. Carl F. Bucherer watches do not just show time, they can tell you a story - a story about a dream, courage and enterprise. At the same time, we are in constant search. An example of this is the development of our own tourbillon and proprietary mechanism CFB A1000.
Could you tell us more about him? After all, this is the first caliber with a peripheral rotor.
Sasha Moeri: Unlike other versions, the peripheral rotor of the CFB A1000 mechanism is made of tungsten and equipped with an effective shock absorption system - DSA (dynamic shock absorption system). Rotor bearings can withstand very high loads thanks to DLC-coated castors made of ceramic. Also, our caliber is equipped with a system for the most accurate regulation - CDAS (central double regulation system). The balance and the descent of the spring are adjusted only once, and this ensures the accuracy of the watch for a very long time. And by the way, we know that other watch manufactories have already begun to use the peripheral rotor mechanism that we developed in their products - is this not an indication of true success?
What collections does Carl F. Bucherer present?
Sasha Moeri: We present four main collections: men's - Patravi, Manero, women's - Adamavi, Alacria. Each collection has its own character. The Patravi collection, for example, has a sporty design. Manero is a classic for all time, impeccable and unchanging. The Adamavi watch is the epitome of femininity. And the Alacria collection is an example of grace and elegance.
By the way, I heard that you are going to present a model for divers as well?
Sasha Moeri: Yes, in 2014, Patravi ScubaTec sports and functional watches were released that were perfect for diving.
To present your watch, you often invite celebrities - Daniel Bernhard, Indian actress and model Puja Gupta, designer Lisa Haydon, Austrian sports commentator Rainer Pariasek and others.
Sasha Moeri: We are honored that such famous people as, for example, Lisa Haydon and Daniel Bernhard, wear our watches. Friends of our brand are not only keenly interested in watchmaking and love exclusive watches, but also share the values of Carl F. Bucherer House: dedication, the desire to move forward and fortitude.
What do you think, is it worth expecting stagnation, or, conversely, the watch industry is on the verge of great change?
Sasha Moeri: It's hard for me to talk about the entire watch industry as a whole, but the trends of the last 20 years indicate that mechanical watches are becoming more and more popular. Their share of sales is growing steadily. If we talk about our company, the future seems to us quite promising. We occupy a stable position in the market, produce exclusive goods for which there is a demand. Growth, in fact, is limited only by our production capacity. We hope that the release of our new Pathos collection will also help us to strengthen our position and increase sales. This watch has an unusual, intriguing design. The combination of delicate, elegant weaving and excellent mechanics will appeal to many.
What is the most interesting thing, in your opinion, in watchmaking?
Sasha Moeri: Nothing compares to just watching the watch making process. It is long and complex, but its result is impossible not to admire.
Do you have a favorite watch from the Carl F. Bucherer collection?
Sasha Moeri: One of my favorite models is the Manero Tourbillon. Through the hole at the 6 o'clock position in the dial, a complex clockwork is visible, hiding inside the case. This watch, in my opinion, is a perfect example of watchmaking.
I also really like the Patravi TravelTec FourX. This watch is ideal for travelers, as it allows you to set the direction of movement - west or east, and switch between time zones at the touch of a button. This feature is very convenient for those who communicate with people around the globe.
Previously, each watch brand had a very clearly limited target audience - the old aristocracy, bankers, movie stars or Arab sheikhs. Now that globalization is not just a word, but reality, national differences and borders are becoming increasingly blurred. In your opinion, is the so-called "global" luxury possible, a luxury for everyone?
Sasha Moeri: Perhaps the differences between national tastes really disappear. What remains is the constant desire to be unique. And it doesn’t matter where you live - people always want one thing: to be recognized by their social circle and appreciated for their personal qualities. True luxury goods are products with a unique character that express the identity of their owner. And we value individuality above all else.
