OWN MEASUREMENT

Text: Irina Malkova
The prominent dude of the nineteenth century, Oscar Wilde, who knew only in the LUXURY of MASCARADA BALLS, affirmed: "YOU SHOULD BE ANYWHERE OF ART, OR WEAR IT"
These words have not lost their relevance so far. For example, psychologists and leading business trainers claim that a person needs 30 seconds to get a general idea of the person he is talking to and five years to dissipate the first impression. And this view is 80% based on how a person is dressed.

Not for nothing that the first serious purchase of the cunning Greek and future rich man Aristotle Onassis was a custom-made costume, on which he spent almost all his earnings. He simply wisely followed the English proverb: "Do not try to make a first impression a second time - it still will not succeed."

For men who have reached a certain position, the suit is like a second skin: put on in the morning and removed only in the evening. But it is the men who wear them all their conscious lives who know that the costume is different for the costume. And so many people prefer to sew them to order.

Patrick Hellmann Collection is a classic style that has incorporated all the best from American, English and Italian fashion. Exclusive fabrics, impeccable quality, and most importantly, the long tradition of manual sewing of clothes is what makes these costumes unique. Fabrics for them are purchased mainly in Italy and England and remain unchanged: fine wool, cashmere and silk. And the best Neapolitan craftsmen, using only the well-known secrets of individual tailoring, create truly masterpieces. Even the buttons are made of natural materials from bone, pearl and wood.

Any suit or jacket in the Patrick Hellmann Collection store must be tailored to the customer’s figure and is undoubtedly designed to hide flaws and emphasize advantages, and most importantly to be comfortable and elegant. The most flawlessly fitting suit is a bespoke suit (from English be spoken "pre-agreed"). The concept came from the XVII century, when in the sewing workshops, buyers chose fabric cuts for themselves, and tailors put the sign “fabric by personal agreement” on them.

Bespoke is the pinnacle of tailor's art, when a costume is selected from beginning to end personally according to your pattern, and as a result, it exactly matches both your figure and your character. It takes about 8 weeks to sew. The costume is completely sewn by hand without the use of glue, while taking into account about 20 individual customer measurements. For the price of such a suit exceeds the usual two to three times, but this is a profitable investment for such a suit you can wear all your life.

However, when ordering, special attention should be paid to the choice of fabric of the thread of which it consists, must be high quality. The Patrick Hellmann Collection uses cashmere with vicuna, the finest wool with a 22-carat gold thread, and even diamond-crumbled fabrics. Some fabrics are formed by interlacing many multicolored threads. This structure gives a stunning effect of overflowing shades, up to changing the color of the costume itself when changing lighting.

“In a custom-tailored suit from Patrick Hellmann, you don’t think you can look bad. You don’t think what you look like, because you’re sure that you look perfect no matter what your physique,” say those who use the tailoring service. And remember: choosing a good suit will bring you closer to the moment that every self-respecting man should strive for, to the moment of determining and adopting his own style.

DIVING IN HISTORY

Patrick Helmann decided to devote himself to modeling clothes at the age of ten. The boy did not leave his father's sewing machine - Alfred Hellmann in Morocco served as the king's personal tailor and had his own tailoring shop for men.
Patrick saw himself as a continuation of the family tradition, so he helped his father with great excitement, from childhood he mastered the secrets of the future profession.
From Morocco, Patrick Helmann left for America, and having returned from America to Germany in 1985, he inherited his father’s company.
On August 16, 1995, a new brand was registered in Berlin - the Patrick Hellmann Collection. Costumes of this brand in a record short time managed to conquer the whole world.

HOW TO LOOK AND SIT IN EXTRA CLASS SUIT

The jacket should not bubble on the back: horizontal wrinkles in the middle of the back mean that the jacket is narrow in the shoulders.
Accordingly, the vertical folds indicate that the jacket is large.
Trying on a jacket is best for a shirt. The collar of the shirt should protrude 0.5-1 cm above the collar of the jacket, the sleeves of the shirt should protrude from the sleeves of the jacket by 1-2 cm.
In the upper part, near the collar, a well-stitched jacket does not form wrinkles or wrinkles. There should be no vertical or horizontal folds on the back, even if you extend your arms forward.
In the shoulders, a good men's suit should sit like a glove. The sleeve seam should begin exactly where the shoulder ends.
The lapels of the jacket should fit to the body. The width of the jacket in the chest should usually be such that under it it is easy to grip the palm of the hand, but not the fist.
To determine the ideal length of the sleeve, focus on the wrist joint. The sleeve of the jacket should be slightly longer than the fold of the wrist.
Pants should sit tight on the waist, even without a belt. With the optimal length of the trousers, their edges should cover the upper edge of the boots in front and reach the back of the heel, resulting in a small natural fracture.
The width of the lapel of the trousers (if any) should not exceed 3-4 cm.
If you choose trousers without lapels, their length at the back should be 1.5-2 cm longer than at the front.
Tall and thin men should not abuse vertical stripes.
But full and short men should prefer suits with vertical lines, they will help to hide the fullness and optically increase growth. At the same time, the jacket should fit the body in order to focus on the shoulder lines. And it’s better to refrain from patch pockets and too wide lapels.

Patrick Hellmann Collection, WAFI Mall, Ground Floor Tel: +9714 396 73 37 | e-mail: [email protected]